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Hi there,

Today I want to get more practical and talk about dress shoes. Specifically, what to wear with your suits, whether that's a business context, a special occasion, or wearing a suit because it's just your style.

Choosing the right shoes for your suit sounds very simple. But there's often a strong opinion about which colour is the right choice. So let's find out which shoes work for you and your wardrobe.

Black shoes are the default option...

...for dark suits such as charcoal or navy.

The old London rule

Before we start, let's briefly talk about the enduring myth of "No Brown in Town." It comes from the London tradition, where black shoes were considered the only appropriate choice with your suit in formal city and business settings. Brown was for the country — for tweeds, weekends, and open air. Many men in conservative business environments or when dressing up for a special occasion still follow this instinctively. Are black shoes the only valid choice for a suit outfit these days? I won't dismiss this rule entirely, however nowadays I argue it does more harm than good. A rule that reserves brown entirely for country and casual wear causes men to overlook one of the most versatile and characterful choices in their wardrobe.

What Akamine Yukio says

The Japanese menswear author Akamine Yukio takes the opposite position.

His argument: never black, not even for business formal. Not with navy, not with charcoal, not with anything (the only exception being a funeral).

For him, only brown is the appropriate choice. Always, and even with dark navy and charcoal grey. Black doesn't live — it's rigid, reads as closed, and doesn't develop the richness of patina, warmth, and range that brown has, whether that's dark chocolate or tan.

I find his argument compelling, even if I wouldn't follow it absolutely.

Akamine Yukio argues that brown shoes are the proper choice...

...even for charcoal and navy suits, dismissing black shoes almost entirely.

So which is it?

Context matters more than rules or strict dogmas here. Black and brown both have a place in a gentleman's wardrobe.

Black shoes genuinely belong in the most conservative, formal settings. A black Oxford or Derby with a charcoal or dark navy suit is clean and universally understood as correct. Even a brogued Oxford, a black penny or horsebit loafer, and black Chelsea boots read as sleek and sharp, and they pair with dark suits, medium suits, and even some lighter-colored suits.

Brown, on the other hand, opens up tremendous versatility. It's a little easier to pair across different colors — from navy and charcoal to blues, greys, and warmer tones like brown and green. Dark brown works with almost everything a black shoe would, but with a little more character as it develops its patina. Medium brown works beautifully with navy, mid-grey, and earthy tones without compromising an appropriate outfit.

I'd argue that shoe shape — Oxford vs. loafer, for instance — matters slightly more than color. For example, a dark brown oxford reads slightly more formal than a black tassel loafer.

While black is considered the most formal choice...

...a more casual shoe such as a penny loafer still makes a good choice for a more "relaxed" approach.

The practical short version

Black: rather conservative, for the most traditional settings, for dark suits when in doubt about dress code. Black Oxfords for dark suits; black loafers or boots work with casual suits or even jeans, shoe shape matters more than color.

Dark brown: a universal choice, mostly for dark and medium-colored suits. Never the wrong call if you enjoy an evolving patina and character.

Medium brown: for medium to lighter-colored suits — navy, mid-grey, light grey, tobacco, mid-blue — if you enjoy a strong patina and something a little less expected.

Tan: for lighter-colored suits worn more casually, if you love character and a less common choice.

The "No Brown in Town" rule isn't applicable for most parts of the world, not even in the most conservative countries such as Japan. A well-chosen brown shoe can be an excellent choice with your suit. But disregarding black entirely isn't right either — it has its own charm and sharpness. Having both in your wardrobe gives you more leeway in creating a considered outfit for the day. And ultimately, that choice — made with some thought rather than by default — is exactly the kind of small pleasure that makes dressing well worth it.

Best regards,
Lukas from Thoughtful Style