The suit that does it all: The Solaro suit

Published 11 days ago • 1 min read

Hi there,

Summer is here and I already reached for my solaro suit multiple times.

If you're not familiar with solaro, here's the short version: it's a fabric born out of a very specific problem. In 1907, the Anglo-Italian physician Louis Westenra Sambon developed Solaro, a worsted wool fabric with a tan face and red underside. Designed for British troops in tropical climates, it was intended to reduce the effects of the sun's rays and became known for its distinctive herringbone weave and iridescent appearance.

It didn't actually work as sun protection. But it became one of the most iconic suit fabrics ever made.

Front - Solaro fabric swatch from the Honey Way bunch (Fratelli Tallia di Delfino)

Back

The "Solaro" name is a registered trademark held by Smith Woolens since 1931. Other mills produce their own interpretation and solaro fabrics exist in different colors, even navys and greens— my suit is made from Fratelli Tallia di Delfino's Honey Way bunch, and it's stunning.

What makes solaro so easy to style is the color itself. It reads as tan at first glance, but up close there's a luminous warmth and depth — hints of red, green, even orange depending on the light. That complexity means it works with almost anything: white, blue, stripe, chambray, linen. You don't have to think hard.

I was actually worried it wouldn't suit my cold skin complexion. I was wrong. The warmth in the fabric somehow complements rather than clashes. It's one of those things you have to experience to believe.

Here's the range of what one solaro suit can do:

Three-piece with a tie - ready for a summer wedding.

Full suit, light blue linen shirt, cream and navy regimental tie - instantly sharp.

Full suit, open collar - the easiest warm-weather look.

The suit combined with a blue chambray shirt. The solaro is one of the best ways to wear a suit the casual way effortlessly.

Jacket as blazer, cotton trousers, OCBD shirt - no one would guess it's a suit jacket.

One suit. So many different looks. That's what a solaro does.

I'm going deep on this in an upcoming video — styling, fabric details, construction, and why I think every man with an interest in classic menswear should own one. It's going public this Friday. See you there!

Best regards,
Lukas from Thoughtful Style

600 1st Ave, Ste 330 PMB 92768, Seattle, WA, 98104-2246
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