Is There a Right Lapel Width? (If yes, what is it?)

Published 5 months ago • 1 min read

Hi there,

Most men shop for jackets and focus on color, fabric, and fit. But there's one detail that is mostly overlooked: Lapel width.

Here's the problem:

You've probably heard "avoid slim lapels—go wide." But walk into most stores and that's exactly what they're selling.

However, the nuanced recommendation of Thoughtful Style is that neither extreme is right.

Neither “Only wide lapels” nor “Go with what’s available: slim lapels” is the most reasonable choice. Dogmatic "only wide lapels" ignores your individual frame and what's available. Accepting "whatever stores carry" ignores your proportions, too.

The proper lapel width depends on your build. There's no universal "correct" lapel width. A 3. inch (7,6 cm) notch lapel looks completely different on a slim man versus a large man.

So instead of following dogmatic rules, I have a recommendation that will benefit you and your silhouette far better than generic advice.

Slim to medium build: 2.95-3.5 inches (7.5-9cm)

If you have a slim to medium build plus a slim face structure, even 2.95 inches will frame your face properly. 3.5 inches is a proper width that gives your chest enough breadth without overpowering your features.

Medium build: 3.5-4.3 inches (9-11cm)

You have more flexibility. Just avoid going below 3.5 inches, which can create a visual mismatch with your frame.

Large build: 4-5.5 inches (10-14cm)

Go wide. Narrow lapels will look disproportionate. Always verify with your tailor or salesperson that the width supports your build.

Single-breasted sports jacket (3.08 in./7.8 cm lapel width) - ideal width for a slim build on a casual jacket. Balanced, not extreme.

Double-breasted blazer (3.74 in./9.5 cm lapel width) - same wearer, wider lapels to support the double-breasted structure and visual weight.

Additional considerations:

Casual sports jackets – think British country style - allow slightly narrower lapels for your build. It's a typical style. For formal pieces, if in doubt go slightly wider.
Peak lapels need slightly more width than notch lapels to unfold their visual appeal properly. Err on the slightly wider side with peak lapels.
Double-breasted jackets with peak lapels require more width to balance the overlapping fabric.

Lapel width shouldn’t be science and it shouldn’t be dogma. Choose what pleases your eye and supports your frame. There’s no real right or wrong. It’s about understanding proportion.

What other jacket details confuse you? Buttons? Vents? Shoulder construction? Reply and let me know—I might cover it in an upcoming newsletter.

Best regards,
Lukas from Thoughtful Style

600 1st Ave, Ste 330 PMB 92768, Seattle, WA, 98104-2246
Unsubscribe · Preferences

How to style a light grey suit in summer

Hi there, Light colored suits carry a reputation problem. Navy, charcoal, even mid-grey read as more formal, more serious — light grey gets filed somewhere below all three. But on a hot day, a charcoal suit feels a little stuffy. I'd like to suggest light grey instead and show you how it's right up there in appropriateness with other classic suits, especially in summer. Worn in spring & summer, this is exactly where light grey wants to be. The real trick to make a light grey suit work is...

11 days ago • 1 min read

Picking the right suit for a formal ceremony in Japan

Hi there,Dressing for a formal ceremony in Japan is harder than it sounds — not because the dress code is vague, but because it is strict while also allowing some leeway in most cases other than black and white tie. The expectations are specific, and getting it wrong is noticeable. My son had his goma fire ceremony last week. A goma is a Buddhist fire ritual — priests chant, offerings burn, prayers are received. For a one-month-old, it's his formal introduction to the world. I wanted to be...

17 days ago • 2 min read

The suit that does it all: The Solaro suit

Hi there,Summer is here and I already reached for my solaro suit multiple times. If you're not familiar with solaro, here's the short version: it's a fabric born out of a very specific problem. In 1907, the Anglo-Italian physician Louis Westenra Sambon developed Solaro, a worsted wool fabric with a tan face and red underside. Designed for British troops in tropical climates, it was intended to reduce the effects of the sun's rays and became known for its distinctive herringbone weave and...

25 days ago • 1 min read